Mexico
Dates Traveled: January-February 2000
(I’d also climbed volcanoes here in January-February 1997, but that trip is without details)
Nothing much of note so far - first day started with a 22 hour bus ride…yeehaw! Caught the bus from Denver to El Paso, TX., then crossed the border to Juarez and hopped a new bus headed for Chihuahua. Had some bus problems along this leg of the journey so had to wait alongside the road until another bus from the same company came along. We then all piled on that bus to complete our journey. Only spent one night in Chihuahua - was simply looking to break the trip a bit so I wasn’t on the go for too many hours at once. From Chihuahua I caught a bus to Creel, which is near Copper Canyon. Excitement of this ride was being stopped and asked by the military - all the men were, to exit the bus and do the spread-eagle on the bus. Seems there had been some robberies in the area recently and they were looking for guns.
Copper Canyon
Copper Canyon is actually about 20 canyons that are four times larger than the Grand Canyon in Arizona. It’s very rugged, but doesn’t seem as incredible as the Grand Canyon - probably because there is vegetation and so it isn’t as stark. I stayed in Creel, which is a small, mostly one-street town. From Creel there are many day trips to water falls, scenic overlooks, lakes, down into the canyon, as well as horse/bike rentals. The native indians of the Copper Canyon region are the Tarahumara, and many could be seen in/around Creel. Many still live in caves in the region - some of which can be viewed a short distance from Creel. The Tarahumara are well known for their ability to run long distances. I’d first heard of them as a result of this, as a group of them often come to the States to run, and usually win, long distance runs through the mountains, such as the Leadville 100 in Colorado. They typically wear a sandal with a sole made from a tire, so when one is walking (or pushing a bike up a dirt road - more on that later) you often see the distinctive track. Place I stayed in Creel was very popular with the travelers, so met many people. Many of us decided to go out to a bar after dinner where you got a free tequila with beer purchase…..turned into a long night! I had been talking to two guys from Tasmania most of the night. One had ridden his bike from Alaska to this point, and plans to ride to Tierra del Fuego. The other had joined up with the first in L.A. Well, one thing lead to another, and then they asked if I wanted to join them for a two-day ride down into Copper Canyon - approximately 75 miles. I told them I was completely out of shape as I haven’t done anything for several months. They seemed to think most of the trip was downhill, so, at 3:30 in the morning, after mucho cerveza/tequila, I agreed to ride with them. Note to self - never make this mistake again!
We actually didn’t leave the next day, so I took the opportunity to take a 5 hour walk to a lake outside the town. Pretty nice, and very relaxing.
The following morning I rented a mountain bike, we bought some food, and we were off. Things went well up until lunch. I was able to keep a good pace uphill and downhill, but there were certainly more uphills than I had hoped for. After lunch it became extremely hot and I had no energy for the succession of uphill rides, so for me they became uphill walks. Nothing like taking your bike out for a stroll through the Mexican countryside! My other problem was that my legs were cramping - we’re talking locking straight such that I couldn’t bend them at all. Just a tip - that makes it tough to pedal! We ended up pitching camp off the road, and subsequently talking to a couple of the farmers in the area. None of us spoke Spanish very well, but the farmers were patient while we groped for the correct words or looked them up in a dictionary. It was nice that they were so patient, as it gave us a chance to practice.
The following morning we got a fairly early start. We had a slight uphill start and then a nice, long, downhill run - now that’s my kind of bike riding! Unfortunately, I soon discovered that what goes down also must go up in Mexico, so it was back to the climb. We finally reached the turnoff to the dirt road around noon, so stopped for a bite to eat. We met up with two Montanan’s that were also biking (had met them before in Creel), so we decided to travel together the rest of the day.
The dirt road was tricky - particularly on the downhills. We’d gain a lot of speed, but one had to watch the soft dirt, rocks, ruts, etc. Something got out of whack on my bike, so I was unable to access the smallest chain ring - the easiest gears. That and the fact that I was out of shape again relegated me to walking my bike up the hills. I had joked with the others that I was competing in my own duathlon - biking and walking. Late in the afternoon I decided to add a third discipline - flying, and make it a full-blown triathlon. I was screaming down a hill when I hit the brakes. Unfortunately I was riding a softer ridge down the middle of the road, so one tire slid off one way, the other tire the opposite direction, and I was launched over the handlebars into the middle of the road. I took a few minutes - spread-eagled in the middle of the dirt and rocks to spit the dirt out of my mouth and make sure all body parts still moved. Didn’t seem too worse for wear - just a little blood and some scrapes - nothing but flesh wounds (for you Monty Python fans)Hopped back on and continued the torture. Next was the serious descent into the canyon - definitely tough on the wrists. Finally reached a little town of a couple buildings in the bottom of the canyon and decided to call it a night.
An American that lives there had a place to camp, but wanted $5/person. We decided that was too much, so myself, the two Tasmanian’s, and the two Montanan’s simply pitched tents on a plateau overlooking the canyon. We found a nice little depression of about 5 feet where we were able to set up stoves out of the wind. On hills all around us we could see the lights from the campfires of the Tarahumara - the native people that live in the canyon…typically in caves. We were feeling somewhat as one with them with the light from our candle lanterns and cook stoves.
The next morning I awoke at 5 to pack up by the light of the moon and catch a bus for the journey back to Creel. In all, the bike trip was a lot tougher than I expected. The Tasi’s felt bad because they didn’t know there were going to be that many uphills, but in all it was a great trip. Certainly gets me into the spirit of traveling.
The following day I caught the train for the 10 1/2 hour trip to a different town - Los Mochis. My original plan was to catch a bus immediately to Mazatlan, but I opted out. Normally that’s the way I would have traveled, but I’m starting to realize that I’m in this thing for the long haul and therefore don’t have to torture my body that much.
Mazatlan
The following morning I hopped the bus for the 6 1/2 trip down the coast to Mazatlan. Figured I’d check out one of the resort towns, but I probably won’t do another. Definitely too touristy for my taste. Did get a room with a view of the Pacific, so that was nice.
Mazatlan sits right on the Pacific, and is a resort town of 600,000. It is divided into old/new sections, with most of the tourist traps in the northern, new section. The old part, where I stayed, is more quiet/Mexican. There are several quiet plazas where a person can escape for a bit in old Mazatlan, and the cathedral is also located there. There is a lighthouse on the southern tip of the island, which is apparently the second highest in the world after Gibralter. I walked to the top one morning and had a wonderful overview of the city - new Mazatlan to the north, old Mazatlan to the south, a cruise ship at dock on the eastern side, the sport fishing fleets in the southeast, and all the surrounding islands. Mazatlan has a unique form of transportation - the pulmonia, which is basically a souped-up golf cart. These are used as one form of taxi. Didn’t really like the tourist trappings of Mazatlan, and was glad to be moving on.
Guadalajara
From Mazatlan I took an 8 hour overnight bus ride to Guadalajara. I forgot the first rule of bus travel - take something warm to wear. I like the cold, but I believe the bus that night could have doubled as a meat locker. I won’t forget that rule again…. Anyway, arrived in Guadalajara around 4:30 A.M. Many of the first places I attempted to find a room were full, but I eventually found one in a great location. Guadalajara is a town of 5 million (that according to Lonely Planet book - I didn’t count. I’m only willing to do so much for you. After all, I am on vacation!) For a big city I thought Guadalajara had a nice feel. I stayed near the center with it’s multitude of plazas, benches, fountains, cathedral, etc. It was a nice place to relax at night, listen to the music, and watch people. Guadalajara also has a fantastic market - 3 stories and covering 4 city blocks. Anything you want to buy can be found there, from fruit, to clothes, to goat heads. I love markets for their color and variety, and usually eat at one of the many kiosks serving food for a great, inexpensive meal. Guadalajara is also the birthplace of mariachi music, so I went to Mariachi Plaza at night to witness the spectacle. There were many different groups - each dressed in it’s own distinctive costume. Early in the evening most of the instruments were still in their cases and sitting at one end of the plaza - looked like a highschool band getting ready for a road trip! Later in the evening the streets/plazas came alive with music - it was nice. Found out the train no longer runs to Mexico City - service has been suspended, so I ended up taking a 7 hour bus trip here, arriving Saturday night.
Mexico City
There is a problem in Mexico City with people getting robbed/beaten in cabs, so I was happy to see my cabbie lock all 4 doors as soon as I sat down. There are actually a couple different types of cab - one safer than the other, but they can be distinguished by their license plates - figured I was safe. While on the subject of cabs, that is probably one memory that most people take with them from Mexico City - I know I do, and that is the green/white VW Bugs that serve as cabs. Three years ago a group of us were down here climbing volcanoes. Two of us hailed a cab for the airport, but by the time we had our climbing gear in there wasn’t much room left for us. Certainly not practical, but imagine they get them cheap with the VW factory nearby. Had to wander the streets a bit after my first choice for accommodation was full, but ended up in a cheap place just a few blocks from the cathedral and main square - the zocalo. Mexico City is a dirty, noisy town (what city of 20+ million isn’t), but there are two things I would advise anyone visiting to not miss - the woods of Chapultapec and the anthropology museum. The woods are an oasis from the chaos of Mexico City, and contain the zoo, a castle, some museums, lakes, etc. The anthropology museum is simply one of the best museums of its kind in the world. I’d been to the museum 3 years ago but wandered through for several hours again on Sunday (can’t beat the Sunday price….free). Later in the afternoon I found my way to the bullfighting stadium, where the events were to begin at 4:00. Really didn’t have a strong desire to see a bullfight, but figured I’d look into that which seems to excite so many of the Mexicans and Spanish. The whole event has more to do with pageantry and style than a competition of man vs. beast. The bull is continually weakened - most notably by a man on a horse who thrusts a lance into the bull’s shoulder, before the bull has his final ‘dance’ with the matador. I sat in the cheapest seats - about $2 US, but probably wouldn’t spend another 3 1/2 hours of my life watching another one.
Teotihuacan
I next wandered around the ruins of Teotihuacan - about an hour northeast of Mexico City. Teotihuacan was the seat of Mexico’s biggest pre-Hispanic empire, and was the 6th largest city in the world at it’s peak in the 6th century (don’t ask me to name the top 5 - I may have just turned a year older, but I’m not that old!) Main points of interest are the avenue of the dead - a long boulevard lined with platforms, and the two pyramids - the pyramid of the sun and the pyramid of the moon. Pyramid of the sun is the 3rd largest pyramid in the world behind the pyramid of Cheops in Egypt and one at Cholula - also here in Mexico. Climbing to the top of each pyramid provided a great overview of the ancient city.
Intermediate Mexican Observations
After returning to Mexico City I went to a couple markets selling native crafts. Thing that strikes me is how much color there is in Mexico - in the blankets, clothes, pottery, bead-work, etc. Many countries make no use of colors, but Mexico is definitely an exception. Remember that from Peru as well. A few years ago I went to a a Sunday market that was exploding with colors - from the clothes of the participants to the crafts.
A few other side notes on Mexico - besides the taxis and color. First would be the organ grinders. Every time I heard one start up it would spin me around, as it always sounded like 2 or 3 different tunes being played from the same street corner. Invariably I’d see that it was simply one organ grinder playing a terrible, non-melodic ‘tune’. Hopefully the money they acquire from this ‘entertainment’ is being put towards purchasing some equipment that sounds more musical and less like 5 cats fighting to get out of a bag!
Another distinctive sight of Mexico City is the security - every Mexican male seems to have a uniform and is the security for something….jewelry shops, banks, money exchanges, monuments, doughnut shops, whatever. Many accessorize with the latest shotguns and automatic weapons, while others sport full riot gear - helmets and large shields. I usually feel less secure while viewing these guys, as all too many of them are young guys with what appears to be an all-too-eager readiness to fill you full of lead for some petty crime.
Oaxaco
Leaving the chaos and pollution of Mexico City behind I boarded a bus for the 6 hour trip to Oaxaca. Just outside of Mexico City I had great views of Iztaccihuatl and Popocatapetl - two volcanoes I went down to climb in ‘97. Popo brought back the best memory. It has been active in recent years and is technically off-limits. However, as my guide had summitted Everest he basically had free-reign, so we decided to attempt it anyway, even though in the few days we’d been in the area we’d seen it smoking. We began at 2:00 A.M. under a cloudless sky containing a full moon and more stars than I think I’ve ever seen. Forty-five minutes later we heard a strange sound, only to look up and see Popo erupting - mostly ash which eventually passed before the moon, turning it pitch-black. Next came the red-hot projectiles over the crater rim. We weren’t in danger, so simply stood there and watched the performance in awe. Definitely something I’ll always remember.
Anyway, back to the present. Bus trip to Oaxaca passed through the Sierra Madre de Sur - a mountain range that was impressive. It was good to be back in the mountains. After arriving in Oaxaca I grabbed a room and wandered next door to the market for some cheap dinner. Ended up talking to the owner of the food shop where I ate, so I asked about the grasshoppers, which is supposedly something the Oaxacans eat. He called a vender over and I had my first taste of grasshoppers. You could buy whole grasshoppers, or what looked like a tangle of grasshopper parts - little legs sticking out everywhere. I opted for the latter, as was told it was more typical for Mexicans to eat them that way. Evidently they generally put them in a tortilla, but I just ate them as they were - cooked in a base of lime and some other spices. They were actually tasty, so go out in your yard, grab a handful, and enjoy….
Visited the ruins of Monte Alban outside of Oaxaca. I’m convinced the civilizations of the early Americas were the first fitness fanatics, as they incorporated stairs everywhere - from the Inca Trail in Peru to the numerous pyramids throughout Mexico and Central America. Monte Alban - historical, picturesque, and a good workout.
As with all Mexican towns, Oaxaca had some great markets and a patio-lined main square for eating/drinking and people-watching. However, the most adventurous thing I attempted while in Oaxaca was to mail a package home…..where’s a Mail Boxes Etc. when you need one. First had to buy a box, so wandered around several stores until I found a small grocery store willing to sell me one of their used boxes. I then packed my items and headed to the post office. Had to open my box so they could inspect the contents, and I was then informed I’d have to wrap the box. Went to a shop a few blocks away for manila paper, string, and tape, and then proceeded back to post office to wrap the box. It was subsequently weighed and I was presented with a ticket which I took to a different counter for stamps. Back to the original counter for the final paperwork, and I was finally done - all this without being able to speak much Spanish….whew! It took quite awhile and was certainly more involved than it needed to be, but guess that’s to be expected. Will be interesting to see if the box actually arrives home.
San Cristobal de Las Casas
Out of Oaxaca it was a 13 hour overnight bus ride to San Cristobal de Las Casas. Most of the buses I’d taken so far were filled with Mexicans, but this one was definitely the gringo express, as San Cristobal is a destination for many of the travelers. Situated in a little valley at 6900 feet, San Cristobal was a welcome relief from the hot lowlands - even had to break out the fleece at night. In 1994 San Cristobal was seized by force of arms by those representing Mexico’s oppressed Indians, of which there are many in/around the town. Now there is an uneasy peace as the Indians continue to await the government to make good on some of it’s promises. Just spent a day in San Cristobal - attending the market, viewing it’s churches, climbing a few hills overlooking the town, and hanging out in the town square at night. The next morning I left for Palenque.
Palenque
It was during the 5 hour bus ride to Palenque that I noticed many of the Indians in the hills of Chiapas use the same method for hauling loads that you see in Nepal - the strap that runs from the item on the persons back and around their forehead. Definitely need strong neck muscles for that. I once saw a man in Nepal hauling a refrigerator through the streets of Kathmandu that way.
Arrived in the small town of Pelenque, which is basically just a gateway to the ruins of the same name about 4 miles outside of town. Arrived at the ruins right when they opened the next morning, so avoided the throngs of people. The ruins are impressive, with several pyramids and other buildings within a rainforest setting. Only disappointment was not being able to climb the main pyramid - the temple of inscriptions, and descend to the tomb within. Evidently an abundance of rain earlier in the year had done damage and so the inner sanctum was under restoration. Palenque is definitely worth seeing if you’re in Mexico, and it was a nice, though hot/humid, walk back to town. The next day I took a tour of a couple of sets of waterfalls - Misol-Ha and Agua Azul. The first was a single cascade with a pool at the bottom - impressive enough to be used in an Arnold Schwarzenegger movie (believe Predator). Agua Azul is a series of terraced cascades that culminate in pools of beautiful blue color. They are classified as some of the best in Mexico and are well worth seeing.
Merida
Arriving back in town at 6:30, I decided to take the 9 PM bus on to Merida - an 8 1/2 hour journey. Upon checking into my room I noticed the following on the back of the door, “We aren’t responsible for values or items that you might leave in the room after you check out….” Luckily I had no values when I arrived, so I was fine.
Merida is a colonial town that is a clearinghouse for the crafts of the people of the region - principally hammocks and panama hats. The central plaza is one of the best I’ve seen in Mexico, with ample benches and sculpted trees/bushes - a good place to watch the activity. The following day I took a tour of 5 ruins in the area, with the most impressive being Uxmal. Only disappointment there was not being able to climb the Pyramid of the Magician, as it was undergoing restorative work.
Chichen Itza
From Merida it was a 3 hour bus ride to Chichen Itza - the main Mayan ruin in the Yucatan region. Ended up camping on the lawn of a hotel near the ruins, so was within an easy 20 minute walk to the ruins in the morning. Arrived at 8 the following morning when the ruins first opened, so avoided the crowds. Definitely recommend this, as several companies run day trips from Merida, Cancun, Playa del Carmen, etc. Most of these groups get there around 11:30, so you want to be done by then. The ruins are impressive, with large ball courts, a central pyramid that can be climbed for a great panoramic view of the area, etc. A must see if you’re in the area.
Playa del Carmen
A 3 1/2 hour bus ride later and I was in Playa del Carmen out on the coast. Feels like I stepped out of Mexico and am back in the States, as it is another resort community, with prices adjusted accordingly. Items are 2-4 times higher here than the same items in the rest of Mexico. Have spent the past couple of days on the beach becoming golden brown (others would erroneously call it lobster red). Also took the time to actually do laundry for the first time, instead of simply washing items in the sink or wearing them into the shower.
Best line I’ve heard to date from somebody selling crafts by the road occurred last night here in Playa del Carmen. Was walking past a table when a man said, “Hello. Give me a chance to rip you off. It will make my day.” All I could do was laugh….certainly original.
Mexico Is…
So, in leaving Mexico shortly I’ve decided that Mexico to me is:
Shoe-shines - from chairs lining main plazas to kids with a small box that will shine your shoes while you eat.
Toilets with no seats - eliminates the argument between men/women, as a majority of the toilets I’ve encountered are without the cover and seat.
Markets - from food, to crafts, to goat/cow heads and pig feet.
Dirty streets - people are more likely to unwrap something and throw the garbage on the ground than to find a trash can. Friendly people - seem to go out of their way to help.
Beautiful plazas - great place to pull up a bench and watch the world go by.
Churches - large, centralized, but usually very inornate inside.
Chiclet venders - they’re everywhere - usually bothering you while sitting in the plazas. Must be a lot of gum chewers around.
Color - in the blankets, hammocks, pottery, etc.
Lack of beggers - very few want something for nothing. Most want to sell you something instead - see chiclets/shoe shines.
Bee Gee’s - what’s up with the buses playing songs by the Bee Gee’s?!? As out of place as listening to John Denver songs at Oktoberfest in Munich and country music in a taxi at 4:30 in the morning in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. Something that definitely sticks in your mind!
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